EBC TREK – Lobuche-Gorak Shep -Everest Base Camp – DAY 8-9

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Day 8: LOBUCHE TO GORAK SHEP (5/12)

Trip duration: 4 hours

Elevation at Lobuche: 4,940 meteres (16,207 feet)

Elevation at Gorak Shep:  5,180 meters (16,995 feet)

Elevation Gain: 240 meters (787 feet)

Distance: 4.3 km ( 2.6 miles)

After one night’s rest in Lobuche, we woke up the next morning to trek to Gorak Shep, the northernmost village along the classic EBC trek. We had originally planned to trek to Gorak Shep, then to Base Camp, and then return to sleep in Gorak Shep all in the same day. However based on several factors such as not sleeping well the night before, waking up later than planned, our “Khumbu coughs” getting pretty bad, and weather conditions we decided to cut this day short and stop at Gorak Shep rather than continuing on to EBC. Most people will start to exhibit altitude sickness symptoms after 5,000 meters.

Leaving the small town of Lobuche

The trek brought us through wide barren rocky fields that had several amazing views of the snow capped Himalayas. We traveled up, down and around a well-traveled dirt trail around the rubble that has accumulated from the nearby mountains and glaciers. The whole EBC trek is a unique experience as you start in a more lush environment with flora including the rhododendron trees and gradually work you way up to habitats where plants can’t grow. Gorak Shep translates to “Dead Ravens” as the area lacks any vegetation.The rocky fields were a sights to see as well.

A beautiful mountain lurking in the background
A panoramic view of the Himalayan mountains above the barren terrain
These views are unreal
A local dog joined us for part of our trek
Nupste 7,861 meters (25,792 feet) on the right and Changste 7,543 m (24,749 ft) all the way to the left, split by Mount Everest

Another highlight along the route was views of the Khumbu Glacier. This glacier is the most dangerous in the world as it constantly moves as much as 3 feet per day, making it one of the most dangerous parts of summiting Mount Everest. Summiteers must first pass the Khumbu Icefall to get to their camps along the trek. The Glacier begins along the Gorak Shep trail and stretches into Mount Everest at an incredible height of 7,600 m (24,934 ft).

Kurt sitting in front of a dried up lakebed

Overall, there was a lot of flat paths along the route which allowed for easier trekking in the thin air. However, there were some inclines that made the hike challenging due to once being higher in elevation than any of the previous days. This trek can be done in under 3 hours, but we took longer for several breaks and picture stops. The region is very stunning so we did not want to rush.

Upon arrival we checked into our tea house. This would be the highest point we would sleep at along the EBC (Everest Base Camp) trail and it is also the closest village to Everest Base Camp. Shortly within the first few days of our trek, we agreed in Namche we would add a trek to Gokyo Ri where we would be sleeping at elevation higher than at Gorak Shep.

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Day 9: GORAK SHEP TO EVEREST BASE CAMP TO GORAK SHEP (5/13)

Trip duration: 5 hours

Elevation at Gorak Shep:  5,180 meters (16,995 feet)

Elevation at Everest Base Camp:  5,365 meters (17,601 feet)

Elevation Gain: 185 meters (606 feet)

Distance: 7.2 km (4.5 miles)

THE DAY WAS FINALLY HERE! EVEREST BASE CAMP! We woke up with an extra level of excitement in anticipation of finally reaching our goal.

Early morning views

The landscape and scenery along this trail is some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. We passed through more rolling terrains of rock and boulders and had gorgeous views of the snowcapped mountains that now seemed right on top of us. Like we could actually get to Everest (even though it was still very far away).

Great view of Mount Everest West Shoulder Ridge(on the left) and Nuptse- 7,861 meters (25,792 feet)
Nuptse towering above us at 7,861 meters (25,792 feet)

The trail along this route has a gradual incline with not too much elevation gain (thank goodness). That way we were able to enjoy the views without being too winded. In addition to the rocky terrain, and mountains, we also enjoyed seeing the occasional frozen pools of water dotting the landscape.

Snow mist blowing off the summit of Mt. Everest
A porter carrying supplies to Base Camp

We also enjoyed views of the Khumbu Glacier which sits at the base of Mount Everest and is the world’s highest glacier stretching up the mountain to heights of 7,600 m (24,934 ft).

Getting even closer to Everest. Another unbelievable view of the World’s Highest Mountain.
Rocky terrain ahead of us
You cannot beat a view of some of the World’s tallest mountains
Gorgeous views of the Khumbu Glacier, Mount Everest 8,848 m (29,030 feet), Changste 7,543 m (24,749 ft) and Khumbutse 6,636 m (21,773 ft) and

After less than 2 hours of hiking including several photo breaks we reached the entrance to Everest Base Camp. This was a big milestone, after 9 days of trekking over 70 km (43 miles) we successfully arrived.

On Top of the World
Success, we made it to Everest Base Camp 5,365 meters (17,601 feet)
Govinda, our guide/sherpa, joining us in celebrating our achievement
Colorful Tibetan player flags adorn a rock at Base Camp

After taking our victory photos in front of the Everest Base Camp markers we began to explore the camp. It was cool seeing all of the yellow tents scattered along the camp and along the icefall. These brave souls were preparing for their ascent to the top of the World’s Highest Mountain.

Tents along the Khumbu Glacier, the world’s most dangerous glacier
Kurt posing in front of the camp
Playing with ice structures as tall as we are that surround EBC
A stellar up-close view of tents in front of the Glacier from EBC

While we were exploring the camp, we asked around to see if anyone could point us in the direction of a hiker we met on Day 2 of our trek who was planning on summiting. We were able to find his tent, however, we never tracked him down. Hope you made it to the top David!

A mountaineers tent whom we met on Day 2 of our hike that was planning to summit Everest
Getting up close and personal with the Khumbu Icefall

Also, while walking around the village, we got the pleasure of meeting a mountaineer from Poland (my motherland) who was going to be advancing to summit Mount Everest. He shared his amazing goal to reach the Seven Summits (the highest mountains on each of the seven continents. Best of luck to you, hope you reached the top(s)!

Polish mountaineer at the beginning of his amazing journey to summit Everest

After exploring the village, we returned to the Everest Base Camp sign and decided to make a monument to commemorate our 9 day journey.

Making a memory with the rocks of our Base Camp Trek of 2018
“MK EBC 2018” – Marlena & Kurt Everest Base Camp 2018

After saying our goodbyes we began the hike back to Gorak Shep which took us about 2 hours with breaks and covered 4.3 km or just over 2.5 miles. The day trek from Gorak Shep to EBC and back can easily be done in under 4 hours, but we spent a lot of time exploring this breathtaking area, talking with mountaineers that were going to attempt to summit Mount Everest, and taking lots and lot of pictures.

Heading back into the town of Gorak Shep
These hardworking yaks can survive such extreme heights and conditions due to their thick fur
A yak that dropped off supplies to the climbers at Base Camp
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Accommodation

We stayed at Himilayan Lodge and Restaurant where they had a nice fire burning for their guests. The fire was much needed after a couple of cold days trekking. Expect prices of accommodation, food, usage of electricity, etc to be higher considering you are higher than 5,000 meters in the mountains.

Our home for two nights
We were not complaining about the view from our bedroom window

At night we played card games with friends we met along the trail. This was a really fun night for all of us.

Our friends (including Lorenzo, Francesco) and others with whom we played games with

The next day I (Marlena) reached the top of Kala Patthar, known as the best view (without mountaineering skills) of Mount Everest (and indeed it was).

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